I love going on adventures to explore the world around me. Especially when the location to be explored is outside. Being in nature helps me disconnect from the day to day stresses. It also satisfies my curiosity about the world around me. That’s why I love hiking so much. Now that the weather is warmer up, my thoughts have been turning toward planning my next hiking adventure. As I plan, I thought I’d share one of my favorite national parks: Big Bend National Park.
Established as a National Park on June 12, 1944, Big Bend is located in West Texas along the Rio Grande River in the region of the river’s large bend. Big Bend contains three distinct ecosystems: The Chihuahuan Desert, the Rio Grande River, and the Chisos Mountains. Each close enough that it’s possible to visit all three in one day. And, each is so beautiful you’ll definitely want to check them all out. I find it hard to pick a favorite part of the park because each is so unique it’s hard not to love them all.
Chisos Basin
Unfortunately, I haven’t been to Big Bend in about 10 years. Trips to Big Bend started in the Chisos Basin, and ventured out from there. We (my ex-husband and I) would set ourselves up in either the campground or lodge upon arrival. The Chisos Mountains always appeared to me to be a bit like a bowl with the Basin in the middle surrounded by the mountains. It is not completely surrounded, though. There is a gap aptly named The Window. It is perfect for photos of sunsets. The Window View Trail is popular in the evenings as everyone tries to capture it.
Boot Canyon
Boot Canyon is like a desert oasis. Located in the backcountry, it is only accessible by hiking up into the mountains. Being a higher elevation and forested, it is much cooler up here. Boot Canyon is named for a rock, called Boot Rock, that looks like an upside down boot. Relict populations of various plant species including Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga mendeszii (Mirbel) Franco) occur here. Black bears also live here. I always enjoyed the peacefulness of camping here. There’s just something calming about laying in a tent in the woods in the middle of nowhere listening to the birds call.
Santa Elena Canyon
Another favorite is Santa Elena Canyon. Located along the border between Mexico and the United States, it is accessed in Big Bend where Terlingua Creek meets the Rio Grande River. The trail out to the canyon has changed quite a bit over the years as the park has worked hard to manage invasive species. Saltcedar (Tamarix spp.) and Giant Cane (Arundinaria gigantea (Walter) Muhl.) were introduced as windbreaks and erosion control, but ended up taking over. By removing these invasive species and introducing saltcedar beetles (Diorhabda spp.), the park has been working to control them. While the trail has changed, the feeling I get standing in the canyon has not. For me, it is humbling to stand there beneath the cliffs. A reminder of just how small we are in the grand scheme of things.
South Rim
The South Rim is an iconic part of the Chisos Mountains. Located in the backcountry, it’s a really long day hike or an overnight trip. The views here are incredible and, on a clear day, can reach all the way into Mexico. Some of the trails in this part of the park are closed for part of the year for peregrine falcon nesting (NPS Press Release). While no longer on the federal endangered species list, peregrine falcons do remain on the Texas endangered species list due to limited nesting pairs. Peregrine falcons nest in the cliffs of the Chisos mountains and are sensitive to human disturbances, so closure of trails near nests is necessary.
Hot Springs
Along the Rio Grande River is a hot spring. This area still contains the relics of human history with old buildings and paintings along the rock walls. The remains of the old bathhouse can still be seen where the spring is located. When the river is low enough, you can still sit in the spring. However, when the river floods, the spring gets covered.
Balanced Rock
At the end of the Grapevine Hills Trails is Balanced Rock. It, too, is an iconic location in Big Bend. And, it is also not easily accessible. The trailhead itself is only accessible by high clearance vehicles. Once on the trail, be sure to bring plenty of water and sun protection, as the trail doesn’t have any shade. However, despite the effort involved, it is well worth the visit.
Cattail Canyon
I became obsessed with Cattail Canyon after reading the book Death in Big Bend: True Stories of Death and Rescue in Big Bend National Park by Laurence Parent. Cattail Canyon is known as the most rugged and difficult terrain in all of Big Bend. Starting in the Chisos near Laguna Meadows, the canyon starts out gradually before eventually becoming steep and narrow with numerous pour-offs. The most notorious of its pour-offs being Bryan’s Falls. This 425 ft pour-off is the highest pour-off in Texas, and is named for Bryan Brock, who lost his life while attempting to rappel down.
There are no official trails to Cattail Canyon; however, it can be reached from one of the Laguna Meadows campsites. During our last trip backpacking in the backcountry, we decided to camp in Laguna Meadows and check out Cattail Canyon. Neither of us had any climbing experience, so we did not plan on going any further than the first pour-off, if we even made it that far. We didn’t make it that far. However, this isn’t an exciting trail tale with daring near death experiences. It was simply a beautiful hike in a beautiful part of the park that many won’t ever see. An old stone dam had been erected in the upper part of the canyon early in the park’s history. We didn’t go much further than that dam. I didn’t want to be a chapter in an updated version of Death in Big Bend. I wish I had climbing experience as well as expert climber friends because I wish I could explore it more. But, I’m glad I was able to see the upper part of the canyon.
Cattail Falls
My obsession with Cattail Canyon led me to the best hidden gem of Big Bend National Park: Cattail Falls. Cattail Canyon leaves the Basin in a series of unclimbable pour-offs resulting in Cattail Falls. Unlike the canyon itself, Cattail Falls is reachable by an official, albeit not well advertised, trail. The trailhead isn’t right off the main road. To reach the trailhead, you must drive along a gravel road that isn’t for low clearance vehicles. I don’t remember much about the hike itself other than it was through the desert with some great views the Chisos Mountains. What I remember the most, though, was it ending in a literal desert oasis.
At the time we were there, in September, the flow wasn’t more than a trickle leaving the rock face wet. Not the impressive waterfall you might expect, but I imagine that at some times of the year it is impressive. It was enough, though, to maintain a stream and a lush vegetation of ferns and grasses. We had the space to ourselves for quite awhile, and I remember enjoying the peace. It is like no other part of the park, and I could have stayed there forever. And, maybe, just maybe, I do have a favorite part of the park.
